February, 2010
Too often we are inundated by wine critics who preview the newly released wines and prognosticate both as to quality and longevity. If you have recently tasted your 1997 Napa valley wines, you have to question how possibly these experts could have missed so badly, at least as to some of the cults. New Years Eve I had the unfortunate occurrence of pouring down the drain a 1997 Jones Family, Spottswoode and Araujo (the last did give 10-15 minutes of pleasure). My goal here is not to brag about the wines I drink or special knowledge that I may possess; instead it is to offer my insights on wines recently drunk at meals and/or special tastings at a point beyond that of the initial tasting of a wine expert. Beginning late last year, I began to keep a current tasting diary that I have capsulated here along with the tasting event, if one. I only intend to provide guidance on wines of my cellar or purchased at a restaurant; never to criticize wines voluntarily shared by a compatriot. One last basic --- I am not smart enough to count to 100 so instead I have adopted a scale of 1-10. 6-10 I will consider fairly good wines and below that the comments will suffice.
So, use these thoughts for your own benefit and feel free to expand with comments on my tastings or add to the list your own recent tastings. More than anything else, use these notes as a reflection of the great fun, memories and pleasures that wines provide, especially drinkable ones. Shared knowledge is a powerful tool!
So DEBATE, DISPUTE, but always ENJOY!
David Furr
PINOT (California/Oregon)
1995 Beaux Freres 8.5 Outstanding at Christmas, mature
1999 Skewis 7.5 Beautiful cola Sonoma Coast wine; still youthful
2001 Chehalem Rion 6.5 Earthy, woody, ready
2002 Kanzler Kosta Brown 7.0 Ripe cola, ready
2002 Wm Smith (Maritime) 7.0 Burgundian, stands out
2002 El Molino 7.0 El of a good value Pinot actually made in Napa Valley; everyday.
2004 Koplen Kosta Brown (12) 8.5 Huge, ripe, ready cola; probably their best single vineyard
2004 Cohn Kosta Brown (8) 9.0+ Spectacular ripe tannins and fruit; seamless
2003 Archery Summit (8) 8.0 Very ripe; almost syrah-like; #29 WS 2006
2004 Keller Estate 8.0 Unbelievable price sensitive pinot; drink to enjoy!
2004 JK Carriere Shea (11) 9.5+ Beautiful red cherry pie Oregon Pinot; my favorite.
2005 JK Carriere Cuvee 8.5 Small pinot-only producer from Oregon – true hidden gem, outstanding and long term; find the mailing list!
2005 Dierberg 9.0+ Phenomenal fruit forward Cali pinot – one of the best new producers
2005 Rochioli 6.0 Thin, tannic, drink
2005 Adrian Fog 9.0 WOW! Age worthy
2006 Capiaux (Santa Lucia) 5.5 Thin with a bite to it, drink
2006 Capiaux Russian River 7.5 Beautiful pinot; will age 3-4 more
2006 Sonoma Coast Kosta
Brown 7.0 Tight, less fruit-forward than most Kosta Browns
2007 Landmark Kanzler 9.0+ Spectacular as most Kanzler vineyards tend to be; many years to go
2007 En Route (Far Niente) 8.0 Beautiful Russian River fruit, caramel, cherries
2007 Illahe Reserve 6.0 Good, not great, now
2007 Del Dotto (Cinghiale) 7.0 Cherries, caramel, soft and elegant
CABERNET/MERLOT/BLENDS (California/Washington)
1991 Montelena (6) 9.0 Still full of life; wonderful
1991 Merryvale Profile 9.0+ Elegant, mature
1997 Merryvale Profile 9.5+ Spectacular! This 1997 has years to go!
1994 Beringer Bancroft (Merlot) 9.5+ Mature and unbelievable!
1995 Caymus SS (6) 6.5 Fruit, tannins drying, drink soon
1996 Beringer III Century 7.0 Still fruit forward Cab Franc, drink soon
1996 Chateau St Jean
(Cinq Cepage) (1) 7.0 A beautiful showing at WOY tasting; drink now
1997 Harlan Estate (12) 10.0 Large, huge fruit with integrated tannins, years to go
1997 Shafer Hillside (12) 9.5+ As beautiful as Hillside Select can ever be; could be perfect if not drunk next to Harlan
1997 Spottswoode 2.0 Insipid
1997 Jones Family 1.5 More insipid
1997 Araujo 4.0 Nice start; quickly fails
1997 Paoletti 6.0+ Great start; lingers longer
1997 Pride 7.0 Maybe the mountain fruit is stronger; very nice with years to go.
1997 Martin Ray (Diamond Mtn ) 9.5+ Stunner years ago and still; ethereal stuff
1997 Flora Springs 20th
Anniversary (11) 9.0 Beautiful profound pure Cabernet
1998 Rudd Jericho Canyon 6.5 Drinks beautifully; try next 3-5
1998 Dalla Valle 4.0 Nice strong start; fails quickly after 15 minutes
1998 Del Dotto Cabernet 4.0 Drink soon
1999 Del Dotto Cabernet 5.0 More structured; drink
1999 Lewis Reserve 6.0 Great fruit and structure initially and on mid-palate; drink next 3-5 years.
2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia (1) 10+ In a recent WOY tasting, it excelled beyond all others; WOW!
2004 Quilceda Creek (9) 10.0 Cannot get any better; drink or lay down for 10-15 years – simply perfect and runaway winner of 3x3
2004 Peter Michael Les Pavot 8.5 Elegant; Bordeaux beater!
2003, 2004, 2005 Lewelling 8.0 The trilogy of this regular release are to be drunk anytime, anywhere! One of the best values Napa will ever offer.
2004, 2005, 2006 Lewelling (Wight) The range of scores is 10.0+, 9.0 and 9.5 respectively. This trilogy of reserves is the best valley fruit in Napa.
2004 Longshadow Pedestal(9) 10.0 Opulently perfect; Michelle Rolland in Washington-State
2005 Charles Smith Heart (9) 9.0 Washington-Syrah that may be ready in 2015+
2005 Araujo (8) 10.0 Beautiful fruit and tannin integration; perfect
2005 Longshadow Feather 8.5 Beautiful Cabernet blend from Washington state; seemless integration. The Longshadow project is an interesting story and one of the best made wines today. Its Pedestal, a merlot, ranks only with Pahlmeyer as best merlot made in America.
2006 Burly 6.0 Thin, tannic – made by Charlotte native, Hank McCrorie
2006 Pax (Cuvee Christine) 8.0 Wonderful Syrah; big red fruits and pepper; if Pax means “peace”, I am there with this one.
2007 Tensley Syrah (Colson) 6.5 Monster fruit bomb; tastes Australian; #22 WS Top 100; great if your style of wine; inexpensive
ITALY
1988 Sassicaia (11) 10.0 Mature; favorite
1988 Tignanello (10) 7.5 One of earliest Tigs; mature
1997 Tignanello (10) 8.5 Always been a favorite; turbo charged for many years.
2004 Tignanello (10) 9.5 The 2004 Super Tuscans are to die for
1988 Ornellaia (1) 9.5 One of the earliest vintages; drinking this you see the forever of Orna
1995 Ornellaia (2) 7.5 Drink now
1997 Ornellaia (2) 9.0 Together the 1997 and 1998 represent heaven of wine!
1998 Ornellaia (1)(2) 9.0 Beautiful dark fruits from this WOY
1999 Ornellaia 7.5 Only because had 1997 and 1998 before drinking this
2001 Ornellaia (2) 8.0 Powerful, structured
2002 Ornellaia (2) 8.0 Probably 10.0 in 10 years but not sure I will still own!
2005 Ornellaia (2) 7.0 Difficult vintage; but winemaker’s favorite because he said was impossible.
1997 Solaia (1) (9) 9.5+ Absolutely elegant and runner-up in WOY tasting
1997 Gaja Sperss (3) 10.0+ One of finest Italians I have ever had! Eternal.
1997 Gaja Barbaresco (10) 10 Black cherry perfection now or in 30 years.
1997 Pio Cesare Barolo (10) 7.5 If not next to Gaja, probably higher score.
1997 Masseto (8) 9.5 Another forever merlot, brute force in a glass
1997 Pacenti Brunello (10) 7.5 Beautiful Sangiovese; silky and rich tapestry.
1998 Isole Olena Syrah (9) 7.5 Prefer Cepparello
1998 Petrolo Galatrona (9) 9.5 IMO, the best merlot in Italy!
1999 Sportoletti 9.0+ Mature, elegant Italian Cabernet
2000 Baluchin Cochito 7.5 Incredible Barbaresco; the price is unbelievable; seek and buy
2001 Gaja Contesia 8.5 Gaja at its best and more affordable than Sperss
2001 Guado al Tasso 8.0 Beautiful fruit and tannins, great value
2003 Carparzo Brunello 8.0 Mega Sangiovese; fudgesical in a glass
2003 Pira Margheria 7.5 Dark haunting Barolo, licorice and tar; favorite; now or 10 years.
2003 Paolo Scavino Carobric 7.0 Barolo extraordinaire tasted at Alto, consistently the best Italian restaurant in NYC.
2004 Bellpogio 5.0 Tannins overwhelm this Brunello.
2004 Cepparello (10) 9.0 What Sangiovese should always be! One of best Italian values.
2004 Conterno Barolo (10) 9.0 Phenomenal Nebbiolo for the ages.
2006 Castello di Brolio (Ricasoli) 9.0 Spectacular Chianti Classico under $50 retail; gem at NYC’s finest Sialian restaurant: Il Gatto Pardo, where the chef’s dishes prepared with the wild olive oils equal Italian haut cuisine.
2006 Planeta Moscato di Noto 9.0 Spectacular dessert wine; apricot and orange
2007 Guidalberto 8.0 Sassicaia second label; opulent drink and value; seek and own at 25% of price of its parent
ARGENTINA/CHILE/SPAIN
1966 Vega Sicilia Unico (4) 10.0+ The ‘70 and ‘66 rank with ’59 and ’61 Mouton as the greatest wines ever tasted
1970 Vega Sicilia Unico (4) 10.0 The ‘70 and ‘66 rank with ’59 and ’61 Mouton as the greatest wines ever tasted
1981 Vega Sicilia Unico (4) 9.5 Starting to mellow
1991 Vega Sicilia Unico (4) 9.0 Tannic monster
1994 Vega Sicilia Unico (3) 8.0 Only flaw was tasted next to 1997 Gaja Sperss
2005 Vega Sicilia Unico (4) 9.0+ Petrus of Spain
1998 Valbuena (4) 5.0 V.S. second label
2001 Alion (4) 7.0 Another V.S. project – very tannic – prefer Pintia
2002 Clos Apalta 9.5 #2 WOY; perfect mix of cab and carmenere
2002 Vina Cobos 8.5 Malbec at its best
2003 Peumo (12) 9.0 Consistently the best Carmenere in the world; black fruit explosion
2006 Concha Y Toro
Carmin de Peumo 9.0 Carmenere extraordinaire, great value
2004 Catena Zapata Malbec
(Argentino) (12) 10.0 Bordeaux-like; unbelievable
2004 Catena Zapata Nicholas 10.0 Cab/Malbec; good for 20 years
2005 Catena Zapata Nicholas (8) 9.5+ Purple scorched earth.
2004 Don Melchor 7.5 One of the great Chilean cabernets
2004 Pintia (4) 9.5 Haunting; holds up to Vega Sicilia
2005 Pintia (4) 9.5+ Vega Sicilia project to be sought after
2005 Cuvelier des Andes 7.0 Leoville Poyferre project; tannic but promising
2007 Pingus Psi 6.5 Wonderful Spanish value; drink
2007 Colombe Malbec 6.0 Fabulous price – sensitive malbec ($25); #32 of WS Top 100; seek and drink soon
BORDEAUX
1921 Mouton-Rothschild (7) l0.0 How else do you describe an 89 year old wine?
1947 Mouton-Rothschild (7) 7.5 Tired, but Mouton
1955 Mouton-Rothschild (7) 8.0 Life!
1959 Mouton-Rothschild (7) 10.0+ The ’59 and ’61 are two best wines I have ever
1961 Mouton-Rothschild (7) 10.0+ tasted. Hope I go out with these in a glass!
1975 Mouton-Rothschild (7) 9.0 Cassis, dark fruit, still lively.
1978 Mouton-Rothschild (7) 7.0 Next to 1975, tired
1982 Mouton-Rothschild (7) 10.0 If I had not had 1959 and 1961, I would have said life stops here.
1986 Mouton-Rothschild (7) 10.0 Large tannic monster; perfect
1989 Mouton-Rothschild (7)(9) 7.0 Always has been a favorite, but tired next to others; surprised.
1995 Mouton-Rothschild (6)(7) 8.5 Classic Mouton; tannic and built to last
1996 Mouton-Rothschild (7) 8.0 Tasting next to 1995 is real treat; try again in 2-3 years.
1998 Mouton-Rothschild (6)(7) 8.5 This is an off-year Mouton that should be purchased and enjoyed at any available opportunity; soft and elegant.
2000 Mouton-Rothschild (7) 10.0 Mouton at its best now and for next 30; fruit and tannin very integrated.
2003 Mouton-Rothschild (7) 9.0 Tannic with years to go; should be a beauty in 10+
2004 Mouton-Rothschild (7) 7.5 Another off-year; drink and enjoy immensely
2005 Mouton-Rothschild (7) 8.0 Probably perfect in 20+ years; I do not have the palate or patience to appreciate.
1978 Leoville Poyferre 8.5+ Mature Bordeaux to be drunk and enjoyed soon.
1982 Palmer (12) 7.0 Wonderful wine that shows NO signs of maturity
1982 Canon 8.5 Mature and elegant; drink soon
1982 Magdelaine (12) 7.0 Mature; slightly less than 1982 Canon; merlot at 18 years
1982 Pichon Lalande (3) 10.0 Not sure I will ever taste anything ever again this elegant and refined; classic.
1983 D’Yquem 10.0+ Mind-boggling Sauterne
1997 D’Yquem (6) 9.0 Elegant; 100 year wine
1986 Lafite Rothschild(3) 8.0 Beautiful Lafite for the distance; elegant fruit.
1986 Guiraud (11) 6.5 Mature Sauterne
1985 Tertre Roteboeuf (9) 8.0 Opulently mature
1987 Tertre Roteboeuf 8.0 So unbelievably smooth and creamy; stunner
1998 Tertre Roteboeuf (5) 9.5+ Best of 1998 St Emilion retrospective
1989 Baron Pichon (1) 9.5 Pure chocolate; had it not been next to the ’95 Ducru at WOY tasting, it would have won.
1989 La Mision Haut Brion 10.0+ Possibly the best Bordeaux I have ever had
1990 L’Evangile 8.5 Outstanding Pomeral with years to go
1998 L’Evangile (8) 10.0 Silky, cherries, forever merlot.
2004 L’Evangile 7.0 Ready, willing and able – decant 2 hours
1995 Ducru Beaucaillou (1) 9.5+ Spectacular showing at WOY tasting; many years of pleasure
1995 Margaux (6) 10.0 Yes, there is a Santa Clause! Enjoy forever.
1995 Angelus 10.0 Fabulous St. Emilion merlot; years to go
1998 LaGomerie (5) 9.5 Le Pin of St Emilion; taste once before you die
1998 Beausejour Becot (5) 8.0 Great Merlot
1998 Troplong Mondot (5) 7.5 Great Merlot
1998 Gracia (5) 7.0 Showed last in 1998 retrospective; could be the dollop of Cabernet added
1998 Clos L’oratoire (5) 7.5 Great merlot
1 998 Haut Brion (6) 9.0 Grave at its finest; but long, long way from being accessible.
2001 Rieussec (1) 10.0 Outstanding finish to WOY tasting
2003 Smith Haut Lafitte 8.0 Spectacular effort from the Grave region; red and black fruit, earth, leather; always one of the best values from Bordeaux; if you ever visit, their Spa (Les Caudelies) is one of the nicest in the world.
2004 Canon La Gaffeliere 7.0 Spectacular value; acquire and drink for next decade
2005 Gruaud Larose 8.0 Thirty year wine; probably needs 3-5 more but nice tannin integration; beautiful red fruit
RHONE VALLEY
1982 Hermitage La Chapelle (9) 9.0 Fully mature, Asian spices and prunes, creamy
1989 Beaucastel (1) 10.0++ Mature, elegant, one of greatest wines ever produced
1998 Beaucastel (Perrin Reserve)(3) 10.0 Large, fruit-forward, unrestricted - perfect
1997 La Mouline (8) 10.0 Rhone monster; if this is an off year, hope all are!
1999 Guigal (1) 8.0 Least desirable at WOY tasting; by itself, could be fabulous
2000 CDP, Les Cailloux
Centenaire (3) 6.0 Good basic wine; nothing special
2001 Alain Graillot Crozes
Hermitage 6.5 Beautiful Syrah from N. Rhone, mature and elegant and matched perfectly with French Southwest cuisine of Bar Bolud in NYC.
2001 Jasmin 5.0 Good value; not sure where it goes
2006 Croze Hermitage Papillon 6.0 Just opened from a deep sleep! Incredible value.
2006 Charvin 6.5 Great Rhone value
AUSTRALIA
1998 Penfolds Grange (8) 10.0 Blueberries and flowers forever.
2005 Penfolds Grange 10.0 Fruit forward explosion with seemless tannins; perfectly Grange! Perfect at the Coach Insignia in Detroit – probably Detroit’s best!
BURGUNDY
1996 La Tache (DRC) (3) 9.5 Wow; paired next to each other shows power and length of these wines.
2001 Richebourg (DRC) (3) 8.0 Not as sure on Burgundies, but beautiful.
WHITES
2004 Sonoma Cutrer (Les Pierres) 5.0 Always a good basic Chardonnay
2006 Macon Crochette 5.5 Great Burgundian value
2006 Mt. Eden 9.5+ Possibly best Chardonnay I have ever tasted; acquire soon while still left on market for now or 10 years. WSJ just profiled.
2006 Richard Partridge 5.0 Very mineral; ok.
2007 Merry Edwards (11) 9.0 Fabulous Savignon Blanc
CHAMPAGNE
1990 Dom Perignon 8.0 Mature, citrus, drink
1996 Dom Perignon (6) (11) l0.0 Stunning, youthful
Sources:
1) Wine of Year Retrospective Dinner
2) Ornellaia 20th Anniversary Dinner Sothebys
3) Aubrey McClenden Dinner Sothebys
4) Vega Sicilia Dinner Sothebys
5) 1998 St. Emilion Retrospective
6) V. Cheryl Womack Dinner Sothebys
7) Mouton Rothschild Paintings for the Labels Dinner
8) 2009 Superbowl of Wines (DF)
9) 3x3 Tasting (DF)
10) Italian Fiesta Tasting (DF)
11) Pam’s Birthday (DF)
12) Great Pairs Tasting (DF)
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